Week 27: Scotland

This week I had to travel for a client visit, and figured it was a perfect opportunity to spend the weekend exploring another country since my flight was already covered, so that’s how I ended up in Scotland. My friend Natalia and I had 2 free days to see what we could before heading to the client, so we did our best to make the most of it. Our trip began with an evening landing in Glasgow, where we visited their Christmas market. Unlike the cute and festive ones in mainland Europe, this one as more like a carnival that mashed food from a variety of cultures to create a greasy culinary delight for those who attended. Options included crepes (France), waffles (Belgium), Greek pastries, and the traditional sausage and bun that is well known to the United Kingdom.

Saturday we went on a tour of the Scottish highlands, which included some gorgeous scenery from places like Glencoe in the rolling hills to Oban on the coast. Our guide was kind enough to speak a much clearer version of English so that those in attendance could understand-most of the people I talked to would slow down as if speaking to a foreigner and then when another Scot approached promptly switch back to the original brogue. Our trip went from fields to castles and was interspersed with traditional Scottish music, and so we passed a delightful day seeing the country.

Sunday we decided to stay in Glasgow and were not disappointed by the variety of activities there. Along our morning walk we ran into hundreds of people dressed as Santa Claus as they finished a road race for charity. We got some hot chocolate and enjoyed traditional English scones during our ventures, as well as sampling Scottish shortbread and some whisky fudge. After the culinary portion was over, we headed over to the Sharmanka kinetic gallery, an experience that critics described as “grotesque”. It is a collection of sculptures by a Russian artist living in Scotland. However, unlike traditional sculpture, these are connected to each-other and to pulleys and motors, and move in time to a lights and music display. It is an eerie experience to be sure, and one I hardly understood as I am not an art lover. However, it was worth the visit to see some unique pieces and a form of art I hadn’t had the pleasure of viewing before. After this excursion, it was off to client meetings for the rest of my time in the country, so I have nothing more to report.

Week 26: Christmas Revelry and Antwerp

This week the Belgium office hosted their Christmas/winter holiday celebration, a fun event where the entire office (all 6 of us that is!) went out to the Brussels Christmas market for some hot mulled wine and revelry before heading to a restaurant to dine. During our strolls through the picturesque mini-huts that comprise these markets throughout Europe, we discussed different family traditions and learned about the special treats consumed during the holidays in everyone’s home countries. We also admired a lights and music show, projected on the outside façade of the Cathedral Saint Catherine, themed for Japan this year. The dinner that followed was at a traditional Belgian restaurant, so delicacies including mussels and snails were ordered and enjoyed, while I stuck to a more predictable turkey in raspberry beer sauce. It was a merry time to be had by all.

On Sunday, I took a trip to the nearby city of Antwerp, to see what there was to see. Accompanied by a friend, we visited the famed Cathedral of our Lady, an enormous church whose spire towers unmistakably above the surrounding buildings. After a nice walk-through there, my friend and I sought lunch, and ended up walking into a fancy establishment that was full of people strictly over the age of 60. After viewing the menu (and the patronage) we decided it was not the place for us and continued on to a cute bakery full of sandwiches and more age-appropriate food.

Following our meal we took a walk down to the river to admire the water as the sun began to set, and were treated to an excellent view out to sea. Antwerp used to be one of the biggest port towns in Europe, and still functions as a working port today. On our return to the train station I managed to get lost (as usual) but unlike my typical wanderings through sleepy neighborhoods or hip streets, I looked up and found myself in the red light district. There’s nothing quite like admiring a local university’s classroom and empathizing with them about the horrible food probably served there (they had the same meal provider as my college) and looking up to see women in bikinis in windows and a street that only has men strolling down it. Needless to say, I took the opportunity to pull out Google Maps and find my way back to the enormous (and historic) train station for the ride back to Brussels. 

Week 25: Paris

This weekend I decided to take a nice little trip to the neighboring city of Paris, about 3.5 hours driving from Brussels. My first day was spent at the Palace of Versailles, which lived up to all the hype about being enormous, especially the gardens. I was privy to viewing the most famous rooms of this enormous building, including the king’s bedroom (complete with a bed about my height) and the hall of mirrors. Following this tour through the gaudiest of households, I took a trip through the magnificent gardens, the truly spectacular part of the complex. These stretched over an enormous amount of area, and were resplendent with fountains, sculptures, and lots of water, the last of which turned into a prime location for crew practice as the sun was setting. These gardens were also the location of my first encounter with hot wine, a Christmas season tradition throughout Northern Europe. There are few things better this time of year than strolling through the streets of the old city or along the lush garden pathways with a steaming cup of wine.

After getting back to Paris, I went to the Montmartre neighborhood to see Basilica of the Sacre Coeur at night. I was not disappointed by this view of the magnificent building at night, with lights gleaming off the white exterior. I was also treated to a view of the city overall, as the basilica is on top of one of the highest hills in the city. While this did mean walking up a good number of stairs, it did not disappoint!

Sunday I went for a morning walk along the canal near my hostel. I felt very French as I munched on a Croissant and found myself in a weekend market that took up a small park between the buildings. After packing up, I made my way to the Avenue Champs-Élysées and walked down to the Arc de Triumph for the best view of the city. Once I had secured my requisite pictures of the Eifel tower, I continued back along the avenue toward the Louvre, pausing at the Parisian Christmas market for more hot wine and to admire the stalls and buzz of the area.

My walk continued through the central park and past the Louvre to the Cathedral de Notre Dame, and then up to a neighborhood recommended by a friend. From a small corner diner I enjoy the traditional Croquet Madam and watched a yard sale-type market happening right outside the window. Upon finishing my French delicacy, I walked through this charming market, observing the excellent habit Europeans have of sitting together, drinking wine, and enjoying their lives in a way rarely experienced in the United States. I also treated myself to more hot wine, which is an excellent way to keep off the cold as I traveled.